A question I have been pondering and experimenting with for a while now, the advantages and disadvantages of grip types 10-2B vs. 10-2D.
I've come full circle on this one, for my own swing. I had been using 10-2D with a pure swinging procedure, spent the last several months working more with 10-2B, and just came back to D.
I find that using B, I tend to push/hook with horizontal, and push/fade with angled. I tend to slip my alignments into a closed/closed (think Snead/Rocco), so generally this is a ball position\alignment problem for me, getting a bit below plane.
With 10-2D, I can use angled hinge with much more control, hitting with decent compression and a slight fade, or swinging with a 'gentle' horizontal hinge and getting a nice soft draw. In short, less rotation, more control and compression.
I understand why 10-2B is a better choice if you are fully utilizing extensor action, but honestly I see 10-2D as the 'better' choice for most.
Why then, does Homer list 10-2B as the option of choice in chapter 12? It seems to me that 10-2D would 'almost' always be a better choice between the two.
I'd love to understand more on this one.
Thanks - EZ
__________________
"Support the On Plane Swinging Force in Balance"
"we have no friends, we have no enemies, we have only teachers"
Simplicity buffs, see 5-0, 1-L, 2-0 A and B 10-2-B, 4-D, 6B-1D, 6-B-3-0-1, 6-C-1, 6-E-2
Believe me, I have, as folks who are familiar with me from other boards know (EdZ Drills).
If anything, 10-2D is better at the wedges than 10-2B from a '90 degrees on plane' standpoint. If you were going to hit something on your left with just your left hand, what would you hit it with? The back of the hand, or the butt /heal of the hand? Better 'support' for impact.
__________________
"Support the On Plane Swinging Force in Balance"
"we have no friends, we have no enemies, we have only teachers"
Simplicity buffs, see 5-0, 1-L, 2-0 A and B 10-2-B, 4-D, 6B-1D, 6-B-3-0-1, 6-C-1, 6-E-2
A question I have been pondering and experimenting with for a while now, the advantages and disadvantages of grip types 10-2B vs. 10-2D.
I've come full circle on this one, for my own swing. I had been using 10-2D with a pure swinging procedure, spent the last several months working more with 10-2B, and just came back to D.
I find that using B, I tend to push/hook with horizontal, and push/fade with angled. I tend to slip my alignments into a closed/closed (think Snead/Rocco), so generally this is a ball position\alignment problem for me, getting a bit below plane.
With 10-2D, I can use angled hinge with much more control, hitting with decent compression and a slight fade, or swinging with a 'gentle' horizontal hinge and getting a nice soft draw. In short, less rotation, more control and compression.
I understand why 10-2B is a better choice if you are fully utilizing extensor action, but honestly I see 10-2D as the 'better' choice for most.
Why then, does Homer list 10-2B as the option of choice in chapter 12? It seems to me that 10-2D would 'almost' always be a better choice between the two.
I'd love to understand more on this one.
Thanks - EZ
EdZ,
Do you usually use Standard or Single Wrist Action? Which grip works better for you with each of these?
But your right forearm flying wedge is no longer offering full support to the plane of the left wristcock. 6-B-3-0-1.
Quoting Mr. Kelley per 7-1. "Grip types other than Strong Single Action (10-2-B) either destroy the wedges or produce inferior deviations.
But your right forearm flying wedge is no longer offering full support to the plane of the left wristcock. 6-B-3-0-1.
Quoting Mr. Kelley per 7-1. "Grip types other than Strong Single Action (10-2-B) either destroy the wedges or produce inferior deviations.
Todd
Perhaps I had been using a weak single action and have now moved to a strong single action. In any case, I have only altered the left hand position, from a 'neutral' position to a stronger position. The left thumb has in effect, stayed in the same place, but I have moved from a 'gap' to a 'no gap'.
As an image, I had been using a 'palms parallel', clapping the hands orientation, although with both hands turned slightly (not Jose Maria weak, but classicly neutral).
Now, my left hand is '45 degrees', while my right remains 'palm to target'. If you are familiar with both, I have moved from the grip of Manzella's article, to that of Doyle.
There has been no real change in the orientation of my right wedge, only my left.
__________________
"Support the On Plane Swinging Force in Balance"
"we have no friends, we have no enemies, we have only teachers"
Simplicity buffs, see 5-0, 1-L, 2-0 A and B 10-2-B, 4-D, 6B-1D, 6-B-3-0-1, 6-C-1, 6-E-2
Why then, does Homer list 10-2B as the option of choice in chapter 12? It seems to me that 10-2D would 'almost' always be a better choice between the two.
I'd love to understand more on this one.
Thanks - EZ
Isn't 10-2-D less than optimum for a Swinging procedure? The paddle-wheel motion of 10-2-D would preclude the Swinger's "Release Swivel" into Impact.
Assuming a flat left wrist, would you really still need it? There would be less rotation going back, and no real need for it. Basically a hitters move, but with a swinger's power sources.
__________________
"Support the On Plane Swinging Force in Balance"
"we have no friends, we have no enemies, we have only teachers"
Simplicity buffs, see 5-0, 1-L, 2-0 A and B 10-2-B, 4-D, 6B-1D, 6-B-3-0-1, 6-C-1, 6-E-2
Most of the guys I can think of with that kind of grip(10-2-D) play a fade. Trevino says he is a "blocker." There is of course Ed Fiori, with his super strong grip... who I think plays a little draw.
By the way... 10-2-A and 10-2-G look about the same to me. (in the pictures)
Grip isn't as significant for swinging as it is for hitting. Centrifigal force will bring the clubface back to where you started at impact fix regardless. If less roll is more comfortable, then go with it.
Hitters on the other hand have a different situation.
Certainly for swingers, yes I would agree you can use a much broader range of options.
But why 10-2B for hitters? I would think at least for cross line motion, D would provide good 'insurance' against throw away, help with the angled hinge fade, as well as being more 'anatomical'. I supposed the real issue is that it is quite difficult to really classify grips, since the slightest adjustment can and does make major differences along the chain.
As a suggestion, I would love to see an 'examples' section on the site, with pics of each type using current tour players if possible, or even a 'patterns' section, listing out the approximate pattern of some noted players. It would be a valuable tool for the site IMO.
__________________
"Support the On Plane Swinging Force in Balance"
"we have no friends, we have no enemies, we have only teachers"
Simplicity buffs, see 5-0, 1-L, 2-0 A and B 10-2-B, 4-D, 6B-1D, 6-B-3-0-1, 6-C-1, 6-E-2