Pull the heel of the right hand palm off the left thumb ..then lower the the left thumb..this drops #3 pressure point, then proceed to align #2 with it and by lowering the left thumb this aligns #1 with other 3 PP's ...not difficult...just follow Homer's Procedure....It's NOT Annikan's Procedure...Homer's remember....
He said NOT to ROTATE ...because the Right Wrist may move toward an Arched condition..which destroys the alignment of the RFFW....DO Not Rotate..also means the Left Wrist..So many who do not know try to rotate the left thumb to the Aft location rather than "abducting it from the forefinger to lower it by itself to the aft alignment...YOU see those cats and dogs who try to keep a coin between the left thumb and left forefinger can keep the coin in when executed per Homer's procedure...those who can keep the coin in are probably rotating it!
Do you think a larger grip size is beneficial for getting this aft thumb position properly?
For example, if I use PING's grip size recommendation for my hand, they suggest the standard size, however I actually think the midsize + a wrap, or their oversize fits my hands better when using a 10-2-B grip. I should note that even by the 'conventional' standard, (tips of left hand fingers just touching the thumb pad), their standard size is too small for my hands as far as I see it.
That said, I think a thinner grip is useful if using 10-2-A/double wrist cock, per Hogan.
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Do you think a larger grip size is beneficial for getting this aft thumb position properly?
For example, if I use PING's grip size recommendation for my hand, they suggest the standard size, however I actually think the midsize + a wrap, or their oversize fits my hands better when using a 10-2-B grip. I should note that even by the 'conventional' standard, (tips of left hand fingers just touching the thumb pad), their standard size is too small for my hands as far as I see it.
That said, I think a thinner grip is useful if using 10-2-A/double wrist cock, per Hogan.
EdZ ...great point....great question on grip size????????
If you 're interested in having great structure of the flying wedges...you might want to consider reading this post....Hint ...Hint....Hint......
Homer is telling you how to get Pressure point #3,#2, and #1 on the same line...The line of the Sweetspot Plane!!!!!
Pressure point drops...
Not Rotated ...
Lowered thumb...
Aft side....
Now on the inclined Plane for Impact.....
Ahhhh?
There's some meat there....
Great Post and thank you. My right thumb was a tad high...it was aft but not in line with 3 and 2. This has made a difference in feeling the wedges and also feeling #3... This is one of those subtle things that I can think I'm doing correctly and I'm not... and it DOES make a difference. Thanks, for this and all your contributions.
Great Post and thank you. My right thumb was a tad high...it was aft but not in line with 3 and 2. This has made a difference in feeling the wedges and also feeling #3... This is one of those subtle things that I can think I'm doing correctly and I'm not... and it DOES make a difference. Thanks, for this and all your contributions.
Gracious....But Homer has a lotta of hidden gems that were in the early editions..that didn't make the cut in the latter editions....
Nugget....
This grip type allows the #3 PP, #1PP, Left Thumb, #2 Pressure point on the same line.....on the aft side which is on the line of the sweetspot plane...thus when used with 10-18-A...the Turning Left hand during the start up swivel..this places the line of the pressure points and the right forearm at 90 degrees to each other...thus the right forearm is directly opposed to the on plane loading action of the secondary lever assembly...Ideally rotated and set up for longitudinal accleration....
10-18-C the Turned Left hand via a Hinge Action in the Backstroke keeps the right forearm directly opposed to this line of pressure points and left thmb that remains in full length in line with the left arm and clubshaft...directly opposed to the onplane loading action of the primary lever assembly....Ideally fixed to be carried for radial acceleration...
Annikan
PS...
Huge difference between Turning and Turned....Left Wrist
Last edited by annikan skywalker : 06-17-2006 at 11:10 PM.
Nugget....
This grip type allows the #3 PP, #1PP, Left Thumb, #2 Pressure point on the same line.....on the aft side which is on the line of the sweetspot plane...thus when used with 10-18-A...the Turning Left hand during the start up swivel..this places the line of the pressure points and the right forearm at 90 degrees to each other...thus the right forearm is directly opposed to the on plane loading action of the secondary lever assembly...Ideally rotated and set up for longitudinal accleration....
10-18-C the Turned Left hand via a Hinge Action in the Backstroke keeps the right forearm directly opposed to this line of pressure points and left thmb that remains in full length in line with the left arm and clubshaft...directly opposed to the onplane loading action of the primary lever assembly....Ideally fixed to be carried for radial acceleration...
Annikan
PS...
Huge difference between Turning and Turned....Left Wrist
Annikan,
Regarding the Left Wrist, isn't 10-18-A supposed to be Turned, and 10-18-C is Turning?
On a square 5/8" dowel rod, like the one's we've used to train my flying wedges. How would the left thumb appear for 10-2-A and 10-2-B?
I believe 10-2-A would be more on top of this square rod. To get to 10-2-B from there I just ""abduct (my thumb) from the forefinger to lower it by itself to the aft alignment."
How would this appear on a square dowel rod, would just half of my thumb be touching the top, so that half is hanging off the aft side of the rod???
Annikan thanks for starting this thread I'm learning a lot from it.
Sorting Through the Instructor's Textbook.
B-Ray
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Pictures haven't changed ...compare 10-2-A to 10-2-B...and you see exactly what he wrote in the early editions..I just can't believe we don't have more "nibbles or bites on this lure"...For cryin out loud...Tons of people want to know how to get 10-2-B...I type out exactly what Homer wrote... and it still goes over their head....Maybe I should've posted as Homer..then they would listen.....but I'm Annikan NOT Homer...or Yoda...So Yoda...please take it from here!!!
The Truth is in the picture's, isn't that what you taught me Annikan???
Here's what I see in 10-2-A and 10-2-B pics:
10-2-A-Because the thumb is on top of the shaft the #1 Pressure Point is placed over top of it to cover it. This pressure point on top put's the hands in a weak position or "off plane".
10-2-B-You can actually see the left thumb seperated or abducted from the forefinger a little. As a result this moves the #1 Pressure Point to the side or aft part of the club. This put's the hands in a stronger position or "on plane" with the sweet spot.
Am I seeing correctly Annikan. The more I know and can describe the better my eyes will become. You told me that too.
Sorting Through the Golf Nut's Catalog.
B-Ray
__________________
I have the best job in the world, I get to teach golf for a living!!!
Catch ya on the lesson tee.
Not much interest in this thread ...perhaps the 1st 3 editions were wrong about this procedure?...Homer is basically giving us the "how to" in regards to finding the 10-2-B grip which is superior to all others in regards to the flying wedge alignments... that is the alignment of the pressure points and the flying wedge structure...
Great Post and thank you. My right thumb was a tad high...it was aft but not in line with 3 and 2. This has made a difference in feeling the wedges and also feeling #3... This is one of those subtle things that I can think I'm doing correctly and I'm not... and it DOES make a difference. Thanks, for this and all your contributions.
...perhaps the 1st 3 editions were wrong about this procedure?...Homer is basically giving us the "how to" in regards to finding the 10-2-B grip which is superior to all others in regards to the flying wedge alignments...
that is the alignment of the pressure points and the flying wedge structure...
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