Grip Types-Their effects on the Flying Wedge Alignments
 

To whom it may concern.
Why is Strong Single Action grip implied as the grip of "choice" for Flying Wedge alignments? Is it possible to have flying wedge alignments with the wedges "Turned" any equal Amount by each wrist alignment? Just curious!....Incubate....Incubate....Waitin for that chick to hatch...Trying to provide heat to speed up the process!!!! Come on baby... "crack it open"

EC,
I hope you are having fun with....ya know !!! Thanks for your great posts ....We spent 4 1/2 years in close proximity....needed more time together.

Hold her Knute....She's headin for the Buckwheat!!!!

Annikan

Because there is no other grip that allows BOTH the right and left hands to 'naturally' stay in the proper relationships the wedge(s) require, (with the possible exception of 10-2-D). To really understand, you must 'get' 6B-1D - extensor action - it 'locks' the wedges in place.

The difference between B/D is a matter of rotation.

EdZ'
Thanks...Seriously, great answer!... Now could we go a little deeper into how each of the 'inferior" Grip -Types produce Single, Double, Triple, and Quadruple Actions and how they destroy the flying wedge alignments and their Power Package Structure.

Nice tie... Ty!
Annikan

The fundamentals of the 'machine' concept, as I understand them, are that force must be 'on plane'. Looking at each hand individually, they can be on plane, and be in any state of 'rotation' - that is to say, palm flat to the plane, palm perpendicular to the plane, or somewhere in between.

10-2B and 10-2D represent those two concepts.

In 10-2B, both palms are 'clapping' the plane - and this is clearest in a swinger's motion - rotation keeps them 'clapping the plane' as much as possible. The full roll of a swinger's horizontal hinge action, from startup turn to throughswing FULL roll - a steady, smooth, constant rotation. Letting physics 'win' over geometry. This is where most learning the game fail. They fail to trust rotation (and setup) and 'try' to hold the face square.

In 10-2D - the left hand is facing the plane as in the 'rotated' 10-2B (top of swing position), and the right is perpendicular - thus creating a 'T' - a battering ram - that rides the plane. See Alex Morrison's grip.

Any variation of either hand from 'flat to plane' or 'perpendicular' to plane leads to inefficient force - either off plane motion, or rotation that must be 'timed', or preset at address (hands to face). The hands either fighting each other, or in some state of turned/rolled that represents either a physics, or a geometry compensation, or both.

IMO - for swingers - 10-2B is the clear choice, however hitter's would do better to use 10-2D to start. Once hitting has been learned, moving back to 10-2B gives the added benefits of transfer power - forearm rotation - the benefit of a swinger's motion, with 'less' rotation.

Depending on the path of the hands, variations in the '90 degree' or 'clapping the plane' can be effective, however they are compensations and generally are only as accurate as rhythm allows.

Re: Grip Types-Their effects on the Flying Wedge Alignments
 

Here's my try to answer your question.

Keep in mind that the Left Arm Flying Wedge operates on the plane of the Left Wrist Cock.

The Right Arm Flying Wedge operates on the plane of the Right Wrist Bend.


The Strong Single Action Grip sets the Flying Wedges and their planes of motion at right angles to each other. This alignment has the greatest mechanical advantage to resist clubhead deceleration after impact, with all three manual pressure points located aft of the shaft.

Other Grip Types set the Flying Wedges at an angle other than perpendicular and reduces mechanical advantage. That requires some compensation. Other grip types have useful applications in certain situations, ex. Cut Shot.

Turning the hands "equal amounts" will move the pressure points away from their aft of the shaft location and can change the relationship of the wedges to the plane line.

I hope this helps,

tfdanos

TF,

Great first post and welcome to the forum.

You are out of lurker mode now, so keep it up!!!

Bagger

Classifying the other grips as inferror I don't believe is correct. They are valid.

In fact if you take Mr. Kelley at his word regarding GRIPS, he encourages a golfer to adjust the grip for better direction (10-2-0). In that section he defines the relationship of the hands to each other or the ground.

Regarding the Fly Wedges, it is time for me to incubate. Plane of Left Wristcock and Plane of the Right Wrist Bend. The Forearms and clubshaft to those planes. Not sure the others can't support the above relationships.

I would suggest caution when attempting to define relationships of the grips to flying wedges in regard to pp#3.

More thought needed.

But I don't beleive that it is correct ot classify them as inferror, nor are they necessary a disadvantage mechanically necessarily.

All Right!! - I'm new to TGM, so please bear with me!

I've been asking a question (to an AI) pertaining to this information for almost 2 weeks now. Couldn't understand his answers or where he was coming from.

My grip looks like 10-2-D, because that is "MY" neutral grip when I set up just like in Chuck's ebook and DVD. BUT, in this grip the left wrist is not flat like it is in 10-2-B - it is turned.

I'm a hitter - have been since I was a kid - chopped a lot of wood, and HIT a lot of baseballs.

In the simulator, I use the hitting procedure (to the best of my newbie ability) with this grip and 90% of my shots are straight as a string, trajectory appears low on the simulator.

Now, this AI says 10-2-D is more suited to a swinger and I must be swinging and using horizontal hinging.

Now what do I do (besides finding another AI)??? Please HELP!

wolfman,

That grip seems better suited to Hitting to me, because the Left Arm Roll commonly used in a Swinging procedure, would drastically close the clubface. The Angled Hinging of Hitting looks like the best choice for that extremely strong left hand grip.

Wolfman - I'd agree with MJ's post - 10-2D is a better choice for hitters.

That being said, I think 'most' people should start out with 10-2D regardless of hitting or swinging. It has the advantage of better clubHEAD control, which is where the majority of people are lacking.

Once you can 'compress' the ball, you will find that 10-2B gives you better clubFACE control (IMO), however this requires really 'getting' FULL roll and trusting it.

I wouldn't disagree with your AI at all on starting with 10-2D - for a swinger's motion it basically forces you to really 'let' the club swing, however don't bother trying to play a fade as a swinger using it!