How did you determine the amount of weight to add? Was it just feel and personal preference?
I have a Certified Balance insert in the butt of the putter. It came with 3 weights (10, 30, and 50 grams I think). This gave me built in adjustability there. As to head weight, I taped quarters to the putter head and practiced at the local golf course. Eventually I got the right weight I wanted, weighed the quarters, and added the weight with lead (Shoe Goo worked great for this). Putting and feel are so personal that experimentation is the only way to go. The overall heavier weight is very nice to smooth out the stroke, BTW.
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Steph
Distance is Magic; Precision is Practice.
You can shorten your putter easily enough. Depending on how you remove the old grip you might even save it and reuse. Shortening the putter will decrease the swingweight making it feel a little more head light. You can compensate, obviously, by adding weight to the head. This may or may not be practical depending upon the putter you have. You can also backweight the putter to modify the feel and balance (currently popular). All this assumes a little mechanical skill and basic tools. I personally have cut my 2-ball down to 32.5", added ~56 grams to the head, and have it backweighted with a 50 gram weight. Happy Putting!
P.S. - Also remember that adding all that weight to adjust the swingweight also changes the total weight of the putter. This will also affect "feel". Experiment a little before making any final modifications.
wow thanks for the info!
i have a 2 ball white hot (the first one out there). does that matter?
wow thanks for the info!
i have a 2 ball white hot (the first one out there). does that matter?
where do you guys buy lead tape?
You should be able to do it with any putter. The 2-balls are easier in some respects to add weight to the head because of that nice tunnel through the head. Lots of space to add lead and it remains pretty well hidden.
You can get lead tape at most golf shops or you can order online at places like Golfsmith or Golfworks. However, for the kind of weight we are talking about, your local tackle shop works just fine. Get yourself some lead fishing weights (flat ones work best for obvious reasons). Use Shoe Goo or a Silicone caulk and glue'em in place. It works and costs almost nada; the perfect solution! If you want a DIY backweight, I understand that clevis pins purchased at your local hardware store work well. Use the same glueing approach. Have fun and don't hurt yourself!
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Steph
Distance is Magic; Precision is Practice.
Homer Kelley Putted with an extended Left Arm and a Flat Left Wrist (Impact Fix Address Position). He saw "no reason to return to the Adjusted Address Position" (Bent Left Wrist).
He then located the Ball in his Stance so as to achieve an 'Above Center' Impact and thus a 'true Roll' (Overspin) immediately upon separation. [Note: This is NOT 'hitting up' on the Ball!] That location will be precisely at Low Point with a Reverse Loft Putter and just behind Low Point for a No-Loft or Loft Putter. How much behind Low Point? Far enough back to insure a Negative Loft ('Overspin') Impact -- and therefore not Zero Loft (No Spin or Skid) or Loft (Backspin or Lift) -- but not so far as to cause the Ball to be driven into the ground.
As usual, Homer emphasized that this was his procedure and that you may choose a different one. In which case, no matter how you choose to Impact the Ball -- Roll, Skid or Lift -- the really important thing is to do it the same way every time. Otherwise, your distance control will suffer...
And you along with it!
As you've said, the only way to give the ball overspin is to make sure that Impact Point occurs above the equater of the Ball. And the only way to achieve this is to have negative loft of the Clubface at Impact (regardless of the loft of the actual putter).
However, there are (at least) two ways that the Clubhead can go into Impact with negative loft -- either travelling upwards (after Low Point) or downwards (before Low Point). Which do you think is optimal?
Another useful point to note is that the Clubhead will be travelling outwards before Low Point and inwards after Low Point, even though you can hardly see this given the steep plane used with the putter. Visually and psychologically, this may be a good reason to place the back of the Ball precisely at Low Point.
Can anyone give a explantation for yoda's set up in his putting stance. I am a teaching professional and I would have a very hard time promoting that set up to a student.
Percy Boomer, author of On Learning Golf (1946) was arguably the most outstanding teacher of his generation. When asked, "How do you putt?", he replied:
"I putt as I drive."
And so do I.
The only real difference between my Putting and Driving Stroke is the length of the Club and the Location of the Ball.
Weighting the Club -- In the Handle And In the Head
Originally Posted by ThinkingPlus
I have a Certified Balance insert in the butt of the putter. It came with 3 weights (10, 30, and 50 grams I think). This gave me built in adjustability there. As to head weight, I taped quarters to the putter head and practiced at the local golf course. Eventually I got the right weight I wanted, weighed the quarters, and added the weight with lead (Shoe Goo worked great for this). Putting and feel are so personal that experimentation is the only way to go. The overall heavier weight is very nice to smooth out the stroke, BTW.
As does Steph, I like a heavy putter. This is problematic because I also like a short Putter. Mine is only 32 inches long, and that tends to lighten the overall weight. [For what it's worth, my Arms are long...I wear a 36-inch sleeve.]
To increase the overall weight, I use the heavier 50 gram Certified Balance insert, which I love because it makes the handle very heavy. Unfortunately, this simultaneously lightens the Swingweight. I wasn't smart enough to use Steph's idea of the quarters, so I just kept on adding lead tape to the Clubhead (and the Clubshaft, too!) until it felt relatively heavy and balanced.
For those of you out there whose Stroke tends to be a little shaky at times, I strongly recommend the Certified Balance Weighting.
...there are (at least) two ways that the Clubhead can go into Impact with negative loft -- either travelling upwards (after Low Point) or downwards (before Low Point). Which do you think is optimal?
Another useful point to note is that the Clubhead will be travelling outwards before Low Point and inwards after Low Point, even though you can hardly see this given the steep plane used with the putter. Visually and psychologically, this may be a good reason to place the back of the Ball precisely at Low Point.
Any thoughts?
Golf Stroke Geometry does not change with the choice of Club. With the Ball positioned behind Low Point, Impact optimally will be Three-Dimensional, i.e., Down, Out and Forward. Impact occuring after Low Point will result in an Upstroke Motion and Compression Leakage (2-J-2).
For those monitoring the Arc of Approach and its curved Clubhead blur, locating the Ball at Low Point may indeed have visual and psychological implications. For myself, I Trace a Straight Plane Line with my Right Forearm and #3 Pressure Point and am totally oblivious to the actual Arc of the Clubhead through the Ball.
Linear Mode
