Short length drivers and swingweight
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06-25-2006, 06:47 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Long Island, NY
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Short length drivers and swingweight
After reading Tom Wishon's, "The Search for the Perfect Club," I decided to get fitted for a much shorter (and higher lofted) driver. In the book, Tom states that a shorter length must be accompanied by an adjustment to the head so that the proper swingweight is retained. My question is *how* should this adjustment be done by my fitter?
I am an absolute novice when it comes to fitting, so I want to know what the best and worst ways are for this type of procedure. I am not at all questioning the fitter's honesty; I just want to be able to intelligently discuss the alternatives with him.
TRhank you very much.
teach
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06-26-2006, 01:15 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Palmdale, CA
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Torque-mada
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Originally Posted by teach
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After reading Tom Wishon's, "The Search for the Perfect Club," I decided to get fitted for a much shorter (and higher lofted) driver. In the book, Tom states that a shorter length must be accompanied by an adjustment to the head so that the proper swingweight is retained. My question is *how* should this adjustment be done by my fitter?
I am an absolute novice when it comes to fitting, so I want to know what the best and worst ways are for this type of procedure. I am not at all questioning the fitter's honesty; I just want to be able to intelligently discuss the alternatives with him.
TRhank you very much.
teach
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Basically, swingweight is torque computed about an intermediate point along the shaft (I never remember the number - something like 14" from the grip end). So what this means is that both mass and lever arm matter (tau (torque) = r x F; F = ma). Now, given that head weights are mostly standard, the variables are grip weight, shaft weight, lead weights (humor), and shaft length. By shortening the club, the swingweight will go down all other variables held constant (it will "feel" lighter). To bring the swingweight back up you can use a lighter grip (sort of a bogus approach, but the measurement will go up), heavier shaft, or add weight to the head with lead (or your favorite solid high density non-radioactive metal of choice - you could also have the component provider cherry pick an extra heavy head as well).
That about sums it up. I would probably have your fitter add lead tape to the head until it felt good to you with good results on the range / course and then rebuild the club with that much tip weight.
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Steph
Distance is Magic; Precision is Practice.
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06-26-2006, 01:49 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Illinois
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Originally Posted by ThinkingPlus
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That about sums it up. I would probably have your fitter add lead tape to the head until it felt good to you with good results on the range / course and then rebuild the club with that much tip weight.
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Hi,
How did drivers ever get to be 45" longish? Would 43 1/2" give more contol? Would that be at the expense of distance?
But why 45"? Why not 46 1/4"?
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06-26-2006, 07:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by Daryl
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Hi,
How did drivers ever get to be 45" longish? Would 43 1/2" give more contol? Would that be at the expense of distance?
But why 45"? Why not 46 1/4"?
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Some players on LPGA have 46" drivers for distance...as do long drivers...
They used to be shorter, but with graphite shafts and lighter heads they became longer to allow the swingweight to be ok, and to increase distance.
There is a trade off for accuracy though.
Pretty sure the rule book stioulates a maximum length, not sure what it is though.
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06-26-2006, 09:05 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Palmdale, CA
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I Think 48" is the Max Allowed
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Originally Posted by Toolish
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Some players on LPGA have 46" drivers for distance...as do long drivers...
They used to be shorter, but with graphite shafts and lighter heads they became longer to allow the swingweight to be ok, and to increase distance.
There is a trade off for accuracy though.
Pretty sure the rule book stioulates a maximum length, not sure what it is though.
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I believe the maximum length of a driver is currently 48". Shorter clubs, in theory, provide greater control and accuracy at the possible cost of distance. Lightweight graphite shafts allowed drivers to get longer while maintaining the same or less overall weight, which is much more important than the swingweight. The swingweight tends to be more of a feel thing and can be adjusted quite a bit without dramatically changing the overall weight of a club (IMHO - YMMV).
What most folks try to do is maximize both distance and accuracy by optimizing loft, length, and spin. For most folks, the length comes in around 44" - 45". There are some who can still be accurate with 46", 47", or even 48" drivers. They also are able to swing these clubs well enough to take advantage of the extra length to provide more clubhead speed. Some hit drivers greater than 44" a long ways all over the place. Some can hit longer drivers straight, but begin losing distance past a certain length (they are strength limited in some way). It all depends upon the skill and swing tendencies of the individual.
That is why really good clubfitting experts are so invaluable. They can chart a path through the tangled morass of options available today and provide an optimal solution for every golfer.
__________________
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Steph
Distance is Magic; Precision is Practice.
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